Sailing Around the Plate. Littoraly Delicious.

Caldeirada

Portuguese fish stew. Never stir—shake the pot. Three fish minimum. Poverty cooking that became tradition because it works.

Origin

The fishing coast between Setúbal and the Algarve. Every family has a version. This one comes from a fisherman's widow in Olhão who made it with whatever didn't sell at morning market.

Caldeirada exists because fishermen needed to eat the unsellable catch—fish too ugly for market, pieces too small to fillet. It's poverty cooking that became tradition. The rule: at least three types of fish, always include something gelatinous for body, and never stir once assembled.

You shake the pot. Stirring breaks the fish.

Yield: Serves 6
Time: 25 min active / 45 min total
Difficulty: 2/5 — technique is in the layering, not the cooking

The Base

Olive oil 80ml — Portuguese if possible
Onions 3 large, sliced into half-moons
Garlic 6 cloves, sliced (not minced)
Bay leaves 3, fresh if available
Ripe tomatoes 500g, peeled, roughly chopped
Dry white wine 200ml — Vinho Verde ideal
Fish stock 400ml (or clam juice + water)

The Fish (Choose 3-4)

Firm white fish 400g — monkfish, sea bass, or bream. 5cm pieces.
Flaky fish 300g — cod or hake. Larger pieces (they break).
Gelatinous fish 200g — ray wing, monkfish cheek, or skate. Non-negotiable.
Shellfish (optional) 300g — clams, mussels, or prawns
Potatoes 500g waxy, sliced 5mm thick

Finish

  • Fresh coriander — large handful, roughly chopped
  • Piri piri or mild chili — to taste, optional
  • Good olive oil — for finishing

Method

Build the Base

  1. Wide, heavy pot (cataplana if you have one). Heat olive oil over medium heat.
  2. Add half the onions, half the garlic, bay leaves. Cook until softened, ~8 minutes.
  3. Add tomatoes, wine, stock. Simmer 10 minutes until slightly reduced.

Layer the Stew

  1. Remove pot from heat.
  2. Layer in this exact order:
    • Potatoes (bottom)
    • Remaining onions and garlic
    • Firm fish
    • Flaky fish
    • Gelatinous fish
    • Shellfish (top)
  3. Season each layer with salt as you go.
  4. Do not stir. The layers matter.

Cook

  1. Return to medium heat, cover tightly.
  2. Cook 18-22 minutes, shaking the pot gently every 5 minutes. Never stir.
  3. Fish is done when it flakes and shellfish have opened.
  4. Remove from heat, rest covered 5 minutes.

Finish

  1. Scatter coriander over the top.
  2. Drizzle with your best olive oil.
  3. Bring the pot to the table. This is not a plated dish.

The Science

The layering isn't tradition for tradition's sake. Potatoes on bottom protect delicate fish from direct heat. Gelatinous fish releases collagen, enriching the broth naturally. Firm fish lower because it tolerates more heat; flaky fish higher where it's gentler. You're creating a thermal gradient that cooks each protein appropriately.

Yacht Adaptation

Prep ahead: Base can be made 24 hours ahead and refrigerated. Layer fish just before cooking.

Hold: Terrible holder—fish continues cooking. Make it close to service.

Motion: The wide pot is actually ideal at sea; low center of gravity. Use the gimbal if sea state is above 3. The shaking motion? The boat does it for you.

Scale: Scales linearly. Use a wider pot rather than deeper—depth = uneven cooking.

Service

Don't plate. Serve family-style from the pot with crusty bread. On yacht, use a beautiful copper or ceramic vessel that can go to table. Individual plating kills the spirit of this dish.

Wine: Vinho Verde (Soalheiro Alvarinho if you can find it) or a young, unoaked white from the Alentejo. Serve cold.

The Hard Truth

This dish exists because fishermen were poor and ate what they couldn't sell. It's not rustic-chic. It's survival food that happens to be delicious.

Respect that. Don't "elevate" it. Don't foam it. Don't deconstruct it. Make it right, bring it to the table, let people eat together. That's the point.

Source:
Adapted from Maria Josefina Santos, Olhão, Algarve. Recorded 1987, via her granddaughter.
Modesto, M.L. (1982). Cozinha Tradicional Portuguesa. Verbo. pp. 156-158.