The Research
A 2024 systematic review from the University of Barcelona, published in Food Research International, analyzed 36 studies on olive oil behavior during cooking. Methods included frying, sautéing, and roasting across temperatures from 120°C to 240°C.
Sample size: 2,847 oil samples across all studies.
Funding: EU Horizon research grant (no industry funding disclosed).
Peer review: Yes, double-blind.
Key Finding
Extra virgin olive oil is more stable during cooking than previously believed, outperforming many seed oils due to its high antioxidant content and low polyunsaturated fat ratio.
The Numbers
| Finding | Data | Context |
|---|---|---|
| Smoke point | 190-215°C | Higher than commonly cited 160°C |
| Polar compounds | 23% lower than sunflower | Polar compounds = degradation markers |
| Antioxidant retention | 50-70% after 30 min at 180°C | Polyphenols survive cooking |
| Trans fat formation | Negligible below 200°C | Lower than refined oils |
Why EVOO Beats Seed Oils
Three factors protect EVOO during heating:
- Low polyunsaturated fat content. EVOO is ~10% polyunsaturated vs. sunflower's ~65%. Polyunsaturated fats oxidize faster. Simple chemistry.
- High oleic acid. Monounsaturated fats are heat-stable. EVOO is ~73% oleic acid.
- Polyphenols. Natural antioxidants in EVOO actively fight oxidation during cooking. Refined oils have had these stripped out.
What This Means
For sautéing and pan-frying: Use your good EVOO. The flavor compounds survive. The health benefits partially survive. The stability is better than you've been told.
For aromatics: Building a soffritto or mirepoix in EVOO transfers flavor compounds into the fat. This is why Mediterranean cooking tastes like it does. The science supports the tradition.
For searing: EVOO works up to ~200°C. For screaming-hot searing above that, refined avocado or grapeseed is still appropriate.
What This Doesn't Mean
This isn't permission to deep-fry in EVOO for extended periods. Studies focused on typical sauté/pan-fry durations (under 30 minutes). Prolonged deep-frying at high temperatures still favors refined oils.
It also doesn't mean all EVOOs are equal. Quality matters. Low-quality EVOO (often mislabeled, sometimes adulterated) showed faster degradation. Buy from reputable sources.
Limitations
- Most studies used controlled laboratory conditions. Real kitchens have more variables—humidity, pan material, food moisture content.
- Reusing oil (common in restaurants) wasn't thoroughly addressed. Fresh oil performs better than reused oil, regardless of type.
- EVOO quality varies significantly. Studies used verified extra virgin; commercial products may not match.
Your Move
Stop reaching for "cooking olive oil" unless you're deep-frying. Use your good EVOO for sautéing aromatics and pan-frying fish. The flavor payoff is real, and the stability science supports it.
The Hard Truth
The "low smoke point" myth about EVOO came from outdated studies and got repeated until it became accepted wisdom. Smoke point alone doesn't determine stability—oxidative stability does. EVOO excels at both.
Sometimes what "everybody knows" is wrong. This is one of those times.
Fernández-Hernández, A., et al. (2024). "Thermal stability and degradation patterns of extra virgin olive oil during culinary applications: A systematic review." Food Research International, 178, 113842.
DOI: 10.1016/j.foodres.2024.113842
Supporting Research:
Casal, S., et al. (2010). "Olive oil stability under deep-frying conditions." Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(10), 2972-2979.
Santos, C.S., et al. (2013). "Effect of cooking on olive oil quality attributes." Food Research International, 54(2), 2016-2024.